ASPA-Fernblock®
Cantabria Labs’ current Water Gel formula now uses its newer ASPA-Fernblock® photoprotection platform.
This combines its established Polypodium leucotomos fern-derived technology with the newer ASPA/Rooibos antioxidant component within the updated formulation.
It provides complementary:
Antioxidant support
Solar-stress defence
Support for the skin’s natural repair response
Broader photoprotection alongside the UV filters
For Chris & Alley, I would avoid older wording such as:
“24-hour UV protection”
because Fernblock technology does not mean one sunscreen application provides 24 hours of SPF.
The sunscreen itself still needs to be reapplied approximately every two hours during ongoing exposure.
Glycosylase
Part of Heliocare’s repair-support technology.
Cantabria Labs currently lists Glycosylase as a core Water Gel component and positions it around helping support skin repair following UV-related stress.
A good Chris & Alley formulation is:
“Supports the skin’s natural repair mechanisms following UV exposure.”
rather than promising complete DNA repair.
Physavie / Physalis Angulata Extract
A soothing antioxidant botanical used within Heliocare’s environmental and infrared-stress defence strategy.
It helps complement the main UV-filter and antioxidant system.
OTZ 10 / Oxothiazolidine
An antioxidant technology represented by Oxothiazolidine in current ingredient declarations.
It helps reinforce defence against oxidative stress associated with solar exposure.
Biomimetic Melanin
The current formula contains Melanin as part of the broader visible-light defence system.
It complements the UV filters rather than functioning as the principal sunscreen active.
Long-Lasting Hydrating System
This is the feature that really differentiates Water Gel.
Cantabria Labs specifically describes a time-release moisturising system that helps keep the skin hydrated for several hours after application.
The formula supports that through:
Sodium Hyaluronate
The Hyaluronic Acid form in the current formula. It binds water within the outer skin layers, helping improve hydration and skin comfort.
Arginine
An amino acid prominently positioned within the hydrating system and high in the ingredient list.
Glycerin
A classic humectant that attracts water into the outer skin layers.
Trehalose
A sugar-derived humectant that helps maintain hydration and protect against moisture stress.
Urea
A component of the skin’s Natural Moisturising Factor system, supporting moisture retention and softness.
Serine
An amino acid also associated with the Natural Moisturising Factor.
Algin + Pullulan
Film-forming biopolymers that help create a lightweight moisture-retaining layer over the skin.
The older Heliocare SA page specifically describes Hyaluronic Acid + Algin + Pullulan as a breathable “second-skin” network helping limit transepidermal water loss.
That explanation remains compatible with the current international INCI.
UV Filter System
The current international formula includes:
Octocrylene
Primarily UVB protection and photostability support.
Ethylhexyl Salicylate / Octisalate
Complementary UVB protection.
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane / Avobenzone
UVA protection.
Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid / Ensulizole
Primarily UVB protection.
Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate / Uvinul A Plus
Photostable UVA protection.
Ethylhexyl Triazone / Uvinul T150
Highly efficient UVB protection.
This is therefore an organic-filter sunscreen, rather than a mineral-only formula.
Vitamin C
The newer circulating formula contains Ascorbic Acid and Ascorbyl Palmitate, providing complementary antioxidant support.
These are supporting antioxidants — Water Gel should not be positioned as a dedicated Vitamin C treatment.
Vitamin E
Tocopheryl Acetate and Tocopherol provide additional antioxidant and skin-conditioning support.