Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate
A water-soluble derivative of Azelaic Acid combined with glycine.
This is an important distinction because the formula does not list free Azelaic Acid itself.
Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate provides cosmetic support for:
Oil balance + uneven tone + visible redness + blemish-prone skin.
It is particularly useful in acne-focused formulations because it combines complexion support with a gentler, more formulation-friendly profile than conventional free Azelaic Acid.
For Chris & Alley, I would use:
Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate — a water-soluble azelaic-acid derivative
rather than simply:
Azelaic Acid.
Salicylic Acid
A Beta Hydroxy Acid particularly suited to oily and congested skin.
Its lipid-compatible nature allows it to support exfoliation within oil-rich pore environments, helping improve:
Blackheads + whiteheads + congestion + rough texture.
No finished-product percentage is currently published, so I would not assign a strength.
Niacinamide
A multifunctional form of Vitamin B3 supporting:
Barrier function + oil balance + more even-looking tone + overall skin resilience.
Its inclusion is especially useful for acne-prone skin that experiences both excess oil and post-inflammatory pigmentation.
Citrus Reticulata / Mandarin Peel Extract
Lamelle's current product communication refers to its oil-regulating citrus technology as “Nobelitin.”
The INCI itself lists:
Citrus Reticulata Peel Extract.
Citrus peel can contain the polymethoxylated flavonoid nobiletin, which is likely the basis for Lamelle's oil-control positioning.
For Chris & Alley, I would keep the customer-facing wording conservative:
Citrus-derived oil-balancing complex
unless Lamelle confirms the exact branded Nobiletin raw material.
Betaine
A humectant and osmolyte helping support:
Hydration + skin comfort + reduced tightness.
It helps balance the exfoliating and oil-control components of the formula.
Hyaluronic Acid
Provides water-binding hydration and helps support:
Suppleness + smoother-looking skin + comfort.
This is particularly valuable because oily skin can still be dehydrated.
Squalane
A lightweight skin-compatible emollient supporting softness and barrier comfort without requiring a very heavy cream texture.
Evening Primrose Oil
Provides emollient fatty-acid support and helps maintain comfort in skin that may become dry through acne-focused treatment.
Ergothioneine
An antioxidant compound providing complementary protection against oxidative environmental stress.
It adds an antioxidant dimension to the formula without being the primary acne-treatment ingredient.
Rh-Oligopeptide-1 + Rh-Polypeptide-1
Recombinant cosmetic peptide/growth-factor ingredients incorporated to support skin conditioning and recovery.
Rh-Oligopeptide-1 is commonly associated with recombinant EGF-type cosmetic technology.
For Chris & Alley, I would keep the wording cosmetic:
Supports skin recovery, conditioning and a healthier-looking skin surface.
Avoid:
Heals wounds
or
Repairs damaged tissue.
Copper Tripeptide-1
A well-established cosmetic peptide providing:
Skin-conditioning + antioxidant + recovery-support benefits.
Within this formula it complements the broader peptide and barrier-support system.
Lactoferrin
A naturally occurring protein used in acne-focused formulations for its skin-conditioning and blemish-supportive properties.
For customer-facing copy:
Provides complementary support for clearer-looking problematic skin.
Avoid turning this into a strong pharmaceutical antibacterial claim.
Melaleuca Alternifolia / Tea Tree Leaf Oil
Provides complementary purifying and skin-conditioning support for blemish-prone skin.
It is best presented as part of the overall clarifying system rather than as a standalone acne cure.
Allantoin
A soothing and hydrating skin-conditioning ingredient helping support comfort while the skin is being treated with exfoliating actives.
Urea + Sodium Lactate + Serine + Sorbitol
Components contributing to the formula's broader Natural Moisturising Factor-style hydration system.
These help maintain water balance and reduce the risk of the product behaving like a harsh drying acne cream.
Vitamin E / Tocopheryl Acetate
Provides antioxidant and emollient support.